2023 Thistledown The Vagabond Grenache, McLaren Vale

From four Blewitt Springs sites, all old, dry-grown bush vine. One parcel was fermented in a concrete pyramid with crushed fruit and whole bunches, the rest open fermented with 35% whole bunches; maturation mainly in old puncheons. 2023 has delivered grenache of beguiling perfume. In the best examples there's also depth, spice and the structural architecture to age. Such is the case here. Dusky dark rose, cherry, wild raspberry, ground cinnamon, rosehip and bergamot tea with a ferrous substratum. The tannins across the ’23 grenache bottlings at this address are excellent, assertive in a finely sandy and gently pithy way.

95 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Thistledown The Vagabond Grenache is one of the defining wines of modern McLaren Vale and a perfect example of why Grenache has become the region’s most exciting variety. Winemakers Giles Cooke MW and Fergal Tynan MW, the duo behind Thistledown, have made it their mission to champion old-vine Grenache from South Australia, and The Vagabond sits at the heart of that philosophy.

The fruit comes from centenarian bush vines rooted in sandy soils around Blewitt Springs and Clarendon, two of McLaren Vale’s most prized Grenache subregions. These ancient vines, dry-grown and low-yielding, produce tiny berries with intense flavour and natural balance. The elevated, sandy sites bring aromatic lift, while careful hand harvesting and minimal intervention in the winery allow the vineyard’s voice to come through. Whole bunches, wild ferments and gentle handling are key to the style.

In the glass, The Vagabond is both perfumed and powerful. Aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, blood orange and rose petal are woven with spice, anise and subtle earthy undertones. The palate is vibrant and layered, with silky tannins carrying flavours of red fruits, pomegranate and savoury herbs. There’s a mineral edge that keeps it poised, and a long, elegant finish that critics have compared to fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is Grenache of grace and gravitas, capable of drinking beautifully in youth but with the structure to age 10 to 15 years.

Food pairings highlight its versatility. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with rosemary, duck confit, Moroccan spiced eggplant or even woodfired pizza with charcuterie all showcase its depth and brightness. It also pairs beautifully with game meats and earthy dishes like mushroom ragù.