2022 Julien Sunier Morgon, Beaujolais

60 year old vines from one of the best producers in Beaujolais. I changed my glass twice here, because I wondered if the peppery notes were from the glass. Dusty, peppery, blue fruit and cherry, roses and spice, and distinctly ‘mineral’ in character, some lift. It’s medium-bodied, all the graphite and blue fruit, has flavour, but gee it’s refined and tight. Hibiscus perfume, dusty texture, such a fine line of ripe acidity with an oatmeal and cinnamon finish of excellent length. Rare elegance. I love it.

95 points Gary Walsh winefront.com.au

Julien Sunier Morgon is a strikingly pure and structured expression of cru Beaujolais that showcases the depth and energy of Gamay grown on granite-rich soils. Morgon is one of the most respected villages in Beaujolais, known for producing wines with more body and ageing potential, and Sunier captures that character beautifully while staying true to his fresh and low-intervention style.

Julien Sunier came to Beaujolais after formative years in Burgundy and California, and his wines reflect that dual influence. He farms organically and biodynamically, working with old vines rooted in decomposed granite that brings minerality and finesse to the fruit. His Morgon parcels sit on slopes with excellent drainage and exposure, resulting in grapes that ripen slowly and evenly.

Fermentation is done with native yeasts using semi-carbonic maceration, followed by aging in old Burgundy barrels. There is no fining or filtration and only minimal sulphur at bottling, allowing the wine to remain vibrant and expressive of its place.

In the glass, Julien Sunier Morgon opens with dark cherry, black raspberry, dried rose, and crushed rock. The palate is juicy yet firm with silky tannins, fresh acidity, and a savoury mineral core that gives the wine both tension and length. This is Gamay with backbone and elegance, perfect for cellaring or pairing with roasted duck, mushroom risotto, or charcuterie.