2022 Le Domaine d'Henri l'Homme Mort Vieilles Vignes Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

Mid lemon yellow. More fruit showing on the nose, and a wealth on the palate, some yellow plum notes, certainly much rounder yet with enough minerality behind. The longest of the three to date. From foudre (2019) where it will stay until January. The oak is definitely present, but the wine is very present behind and certainly develops well with energy lightly topped with coconut. In demi-muid (2015 Stockinger) there is again the oxidative oak thing. Much too marked on the palate alas. Scored on the assumption that the last will be managed. Drink from 2027-2034. Tasted Jul 2023

91-93 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Michel Laroche established Le Domaine d'Henri in 2010, naming the estate in honour of his father and continuing a family winemaking tradition in Chablis that stretches back generations. With a particular focus on old vines and individual vineyard character, the domaine produces some beautifully expressive examples of northern Burgundy Chardonnay. L'Homme Mort Vieilles Vignes is among its most distinguished wines, prized for its concentration, elegance and ageing potential.

L'Homme Mort is a highly regarded Premier Cru vineyard within the wider Fourchaume area, on the right bank of the Serein. Its mature Chardonnay vines grow in Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, producing wines with impressive depth and a distinctive mineral character. The sunny 2022 vintage has given the wine ripe, generous fruit without losing the freshness that makes fine Chablis so appealing.

Pale gold with bright straw reflections. Preserved lemon, ripe pear and golden apple mingle with white flowers, crushed seashell and a delicate hint of toasted almond. The palate is concentrated yet graceful, with succulent orchard fruit, finely integrated acidity and a lovely sense of chalky tension. Subtle notes of citrus oil, wet stone and savoury spice linger through a long, saline finish.

Try it with pan fried John Dory and a light mussel sauce, steamed prawn dumplings with ginger and chives, or a golden tart of caramelised fennel and Parmesan. Its mineral intensity would also be wonderful with freshly shucked oysters and a squeeze of lemon.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2037. Already showing lovely depth, with the structure to develop further complexity over the next decade.