2022 Louis Latour Volnay les Mitans 1er Cru, Burgundy

Volnay has long been regarded as one of Burgundy’s most graceful expressions of Pinot Noir, known for wines that favour perfume, finesse and silky texture over sheer power. Les Mitans is one of the village’s most admired Premier Cru vineyards, sitting on well drained limestone soils that consistently produce wines of elegance and precision. Louis Latour, whose Burgundian history dates back to 1797, captures the vineyard’s refined personality beautifully in the excellent 2022 vintage.

Fragrant red cherry, wild strawberry and cranberry notes rise effortlessly from the glass, joined by violets, rose petals and delicate spice. Beneath the bright fruit sits a gentle savoury complexity with hints of forest floor, tea leaf and crushed stone slowly unfolding as the wine opens. The texture is wonderfully fine and flowing, almost weightless at first, though there is enough concentration and structure underneath to remind you this is serious Premier Cru Burgundy. Subtle oak adds polish rather than dominance, allowing the purity of the fruit and vineyard character to shine through.

This is the kind of Pinot Noir that rewards a slower pace. Roast duck with cherry glaze would be magnificent, though it would also pair beautifully with mushroom risotto, herb roasted quail or delicate veal dishes. Over the course of an evening the wine becomes increasingly perfumed and complex, making every glass a little more compelling than the last. Delicious now with some air, though it has the balance and detail to evolve gracefully over the next 10 to 15 years.