2022 Maxime Graillot Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Northern Rhone

Pure northern Rhône nose with quite a bit of tension. OK it’s not Hermitage Blanc but it’s not far off. Really successful, full-bodied but lively wine with all the satin flattery of a fine white Hermitage. GV.

17 points jancisrobinson.com 

Les Pends is one of the very finest white lieux-dits in Crozes-Hermitage. Maxime Graillot had been waiting and waiting to get a parcel and finally succeeded in 2014. It’s a sloping, south-facing hillside on white clay and chalk, described by Rhône authority John Livingstone-Learmonth as a “high, high-quality terroir”. The site’s appeal lies in its ability to ripen fruit while retaining a mouthwatering structure courtesy of the limestone-rich soils. Les Pends is simply one of the most coveted terroirs in the region for white grapes, and Maxime’s wine—full of alluring floral fruit and stony intensity—explains why. 

Graillot owns just 0.4 hectares of 40-year-old vines densely planted to 75% Marsanne and 25% Roussanne. The grapes are pressed as bunches and ferment with indigenous yeasts, and the wine matures in 600-litre demi-muid and 300-litre cigar. Unlike the Domaine Alain Graillot white—grown on the deep alluvial soils of Pont-de-l’Isère—Graillot does not block malolactic conversion; the limestone soils provide enough freshness and tension. It’s a much bigger puncher than the 2021. 

Maxime Graillot’s Crozes-Hermitage Blanc from the Northern Rhône is a standout white that brings a fresh, elegant twist to the traditionally red wine-focused region. Maxime, following in his father Alain Graillot’s footsteps, has carved out a reputation for crafting wines that balance the power of the Rhône with finesse and clarity. Sourced from the heart of Crozes-Hermitage, this white is made predominantly from the Marsanne grape, a variety known for its rich texture and aromatic complexity, with a touch of Roussanne to add freshness and a floral lift.

The vineyards for this white are located on the same granite soils that make Crozes-Hermitage reds so distinctive, with the combination of sun-drenched days and cool nights allowing the grapes to ripen slowly, preserving both their fruit intensity and natural acidity. Maxime’s winemaking philosophy focuses on minimal intervention, fermenting in a mix of stainless steel and large oak barrels to allow the fruit to shine while imparting subtle texture and complexity from the wood.

The result is a wine that bursts with aromas of ripe pear, white peach, and citrus zest, interwoven with delicate notes of honey, almond, and a hint of herbal freshness. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with a round, creamy mouthfeel that’s balanced by vibrant acidity. The flavors mirror the nose with layers of ripe stone fruits, a touch of beeswax, and a mineral edge that adds depth and complexity. The finish is long and clean, with a lingering note of citrus and a soft, nutty undertone that invites another sip.

Maxime Graillot’s Crozes-Hermitage Blanc is an incredibly versatile choice for food pairing. It’s perfect with seafood, particularly shellfish or grilled fish, as well as roasted chicken or dishes with creamy sauces. It also pairs beautifully with fresh cheeses like goat cheese or Brie, making it a great option for a variety of meals or as an aperitif on its own.