2022 MMAD Vineyard Blewitt Springs Shiraz, McLaren Vale

This is a seriously impressive release, showcasing winemaker Adam Wadewitz’s learnings from the first vintage and the bounty of full viticultural control. The old-vine fruit could easily handle about one-third whole bunch, a Wadewitz favourite. And that impact is profoundly positive, weaving in spicy, smoky notes and complexing tannins to provide exceptional tension without greenness. Red and blue fruits, violet and dusky red florals, coal dust, anise, cacao and roasted coffee bean. Intensity on the palate at moderate alcohol and no heavy mid-palate sweetness nor new oak. Rather, it is poised throughout, with fruit intensity seamlessly meshed into a silky, supple but aptly assertive structure, a ferrous nori/kelp mineral note underpinning. For a site purchased prizing grenache, this is a revelation.

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au Feb 2024

2023 McLaren Vale Wine Show

Best Traditional White Wine for 2022 Chenin Blanc

Best Single Vineyard Wine Any Style (Other Than Shiraz) for 2022 Chenin Blanc

Best Single Vineyard Viticulturist for Murray Leake

Best Small Producer for MMAD Vineyard

MMAD Vineyard Blewitt Springs Shiraz from McLaren Vale is a deeply expressive and refined take on old vine Shiraz from one of the most revered pockets in the region. The vineyard itself was planted in 1941 in the deep sandy soils of Blewitt Springs, where altitude, coastal breezes and ancient geology combine to produce wines of remarkable fragrance, finesse and structure.

MMAD stands for Martin Shaw, Michael Hill Smith, Adam Wadewitz and David LeMire, the dream team behind Shaw + Smith and Tolpuddle. This project is all about showcasing exceptional single vineyards, and in this case, the focus is on the character of Blewitt Springs’ sandy soils and mature vines.

The winemaking is handled by Adam Wadewitz, who brings a light touch to the powerful fruit. The grapes are hand harvested, wild fermented with some whole bunches, and matured in large format French oak to preserve purity and site expression. The result is a Shiraz that’s as much about energy and detail as it is about richness.

On the nose, it’s vibrant and aromatic, with layers of black cherry, blood plum, pink peppercorn, dried herbs and a whisper of lavender. The palate follows with medium-bodied weight and real precision, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. There’s savoury depth and gentle grip, but also lift and brightness that speak clearly of Blewitt Springs.

This is a Syrah-style Shiraz, made for those who prefer elegance over density. It pairs beautifully with chargrilled lamb cutlets, roast beetroot with goats cheese, or slow-roasted duck with five-spice. With a few years in the cellar, it will evolve further complexity and earthy nuance.