2023 MMAD Vineyard Blewitt Springs Shiraz, McLaren Vale

The third year, and a notably long and cool season. The process here, in general, is fermentation in concrete and oak with a portion of whole bunch, though mostly destemmed, then élevage in older, larger French oak. There’s a little reduction up front but that settles, revealing a moodily scented wine, saline with blackberry pastille, olive, ground cacao nibs, violet and lavender, black cherry, star anise, clove, pepper and mace. It’s a complex wine, more medium in stature, with significant Rhône echoes. Saint-Joseph comes to mind, but this is a wine of site and there’s nothing imitative about the elaboration. Another excellent release; maybe less intense than the '22, but just so detailed..

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au May 2025

MMAD Vineyard Blewitt Springs Shiraz from McLaren Vale is a deeply expressive and refined take on old vine Shiraz from one of the most revered pockets in the region. The vineyard itself was planted in 1941 in the deep sandy soils of Blewitt Springs, where altitude, coastal breezes and ancient geology combine to produce wines of remarkable fragrance, finesse and structure.

MMAD stands for Martin Shaw, Michael Hill Smith, Adam Wadewitz and David LeMire, the dream team behind Shaw + Smith and Tolpuddle. This project is all about showcasing exceptional single vineyards, and in this case, the focus is on the character of Blewitt Springs’ sandy soils and mature vines.

The winemaking is handled by Adam Wadewitz, who brings a light touch to the powerful fruit. The grapes are hand harvested, wild fermented with some whole bunches, and matured in large format French oak to preserve purity and site expression. The result is a Shiraz that’s as much about energy and detail as it is about richness.

On the nose, it’s vibrant and aromatic, with layers of black cherry, blood plum, pink peppercorn, dried herbs and a whisper of lavender. The palate follows with medium-bodied weight and real precision, framed by fine tannins and fresh acidity. There’s savoury depth and gentle grip, but also lift and brightness that speak clearly of Blewitt Springs.

This is a Syrah-style Shiraz, made for those who prefer elegance over density. It pairs beautifully with chargrilled lamb cutlets, roast beetroot with goats cheese, or slow-roasted duck with five-spice. With a few years in the cellar, it will evolve further complexity and earthy nuance.