2022 Philippe Le Hardi Mercurey Rouge Les Cheneaults, Burgundy

Solid mid crimson. The bouquet privileges ripe strawberries. Here there is a bit more weight of fruit, and some structure from the tannins, a little more typical of Mercurey. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Oct 2023

Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Château Philippe le Hardi has one of the more colourful histories in Burgundy. Its imposing château in Santenay takes its name from Philippe the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, who famously issued his 1395 decree banning Gamay from the region’s finest vineyards in favour of Pinot Noir. Today the estate works across an impressive collection of Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise vineyards, with Mercurey providing some of its most characterful reds.

Les Cheneaults lies in Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise, where clay and limestone soils give Pinot plenty of fruit while retaining the savoury structure for which the appellation is known. The excellent 2022 vintage brought warmth and beautifully ripe fruit, yet the best wines maintained freshness. Here that translates into a generous expression of Mercurey with enough earthy detail and tannin underneath to keep things distinctly Burgundian.

Bright ruby crimson, the bouquet opens with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and red plum, joined by violet, blood orange and dried thyme. Black tea, clove and a little woodland earth emerge as it opens. The palate is supple and juicy at first, with cherry and raspberry flowing into firmer savoury territory. Fine tannins provide shape, while orange peel, herbs and gentle spice lead towards a fresh, earthy finish.

At the table, think crispy duck with five spice, pork and shiitake dumplings, grilled salmon with soy and ginger, chicken with mushrooms and Dijon mustard or a Gruyère and caramelised onion tart. Our pick is the duck. Crisp skin, sweet meat and fragrant spice alongside Mercurey’s cherry fruit and earthy savouriness should make short work of the bottle.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.