2023 Vincent Girardin Pommard Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy

Vincent Girardin established his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with just two hectares inherited from his family, gradually building one of the Côte de Beaune’s most recognisable names. The domaine changed hands in 2011, with long time winemaker Eric Germain remaining at the helm and preserving the restrained, vineyard focused direction he had helped establish. The Vieilles Vignes wines are particularly good introductions to the domaine’s philosophy, combining old vine depth with a polished but distinctly Burgundian shape.

Pommard is famous for the more structured face of Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir, its clay and limestone soils generally producing darker fruit and firmer tannins than neighbouring Volnay. Vieilles Vignes draws on mature vines, bringing extra concentration without turning the wine heavy. The 2023 vintage adds generous, beautifully ripe fruit to that natural Pommard backbone, making this relatively approachable young while still having plenty tucked away for the cellar.

Bright ruby crimson with dark cherry, raspberry and red plum at first, followed by violet and blood orange. Black tea, clove and subtle anise emerge with air, joined by forest floor and a cool earthy note. The palate has lovely depth, with juicy red and dark fruit framed by fresh acidity and fine, firm tannins. Cherry, orange peel and savoury spice gradually tighten towards a long, earthy finish.

Duck with mushrooms and roasted shallots feels made for it. Porcini risotto, quail with lentils, grilled salmon with mushroom sauce or an earthy celeriac and Comté gratin can take things in other directions. Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.