2023 Vincent Girardin Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Burgundy

Vincent Girardin began his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with just two hectares inherited from his family, gradually building an impressive collection of vineyards across the Côte de Beaune. When the domaine changed hands in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain remained and continued the move towards finer extraction, restrained oak and greater transparency. Champans is exactly the sort of vineyard where that quieter approach pays dividends.

Champans is one of Volnay’s most highly regarded Premier Crus, sitting mid slope south of the village and adjoining other celebrated sites including Taillepieds. Its clay and limestone soils tend to give Pinot Noir more depth and structure than the most delicate Volnay vineyards while retaining the perfume that makes the village so seductive. The generous 2023 vintage gives Champans plenty of beautifully ripe fruit, but underneath lies the mineral structure and fine tannin needed for serious ageing.

Bright ruby garnet, opening with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant before violet and dried rose emerge. Blood orange adds lift, followed by clove, black tea and subtle forest floor. The palate is silky at first, then gradually reveals its structure, with concentrated red fruit carried by fresh acidity and fine, chalky tannins. Cherry, orange peel, tea leaf and earthy spice stretch across a long, fragrant finish.

Duck breast with porcini and roasted shallots is difficult to walk past, while quail with lentils, mushroom and Comté tart, grilled salmon with beurre rouge or celeriac roasted with hazelnuts would all suit its elegant, earthy personality. Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2042.