2022 Place of Changing Winds Tradition White Organic, Bendigo

Mid-light yellow colour, forward for its age, but the bouquet confirms that it's been wood aged and this has also added smoky charcuterie, spices and honey to result in a complex nose. The palate picks up the thread and delivers a rich full-bodied mouthful with roundness and viscosity, well judged phenolics contributing to the structure and texture, the finish rolling long and satisfying. This is a smashing Rhône-style dry white of great character and texture.

95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

So the wine is two thirds a marsanne and roussanne blend and the rest a considered portion of chardonnay. Fancy oak, as is often the way of POCW, is also applied. I loved this from hello. Texture, weight, a slice of fresh cut, just ripe stone fruit acidity, a fuzz to the overall feel with some dollops of nougat amongst it all. Fragrant, full flavoured yet refreshing, a saline trill that speaks of minerality. It’s a cuddly wine with enough zestiness to refresh with each sip. Delicious drinking ensues. 

94 points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au

The texture is beautiful, the body too, it brings flavour and a level of panache. Almost anything with roussanne in it has me at hello and then there’s chardonnay, the charms of which precede it, so to speak. This is my kind of white wine, unafraid of flavour, unafraid of fullness, sparked with spice, slippery with sweet, integrated oak, the flesh of yellow stonefruit laid on. For all the time I spent with it, I kept wanting the finish to extend out a fraction further, and for there to be a fraction less warmth. An extra year or two in bottle will likely deal with the former, and possibly the latter too. Either way, it’s a classy white wine.

93+ points Campbell Mattinson winefront.com.au 

This year, the POCW team decided to see if a blend of the three white grapes they have in the cellar might work as well as the Tradition red. They were blown away by the result, and so were we. This is one-third Chardonnay from a new Dominique Laurent Tronçais cask and two-thirds Marsanne and Roussanne. It has all the generosity of this producer’s Marsanne/Roussanne with the cut and thrust of the Chardonnay (not to mention some seriously classy oak). The first year of aging was in a mixture of 500-litre cask, Wineglobes and neutral barriques. The wine spent its second year in steel. It was bottled at the end of November 2023.