2022 Praeter Vino Rosso, Piedmont

Praeter Vino Rosso is a soulful and unconventional red from Piedmont, made by winemaker Mattia Gaudio under his micro-label Praeter—Latin for "beyond." This wine is indeed just that: a project that steps outside Piedmont’s traditional DOCG framework to explore purity, place, and minimalism, without the constraints of classification. Working in the hills around Alessandria in southern Piedmont, Mattia focuses on native grapes and spontaneous fermentation, farming organically and intervening only when absolutely necessary.

Vino Rosso is typically a blend, and in this case, the wine draws from younger vines of Barbera and Dolcetto, sometimes with a splash of Freisa or Croatina, depending on the vintage. The fruit is handpicked, wild fermented, and aged in old barrels and concrete, keeping everything raw, vibrant and unadorned. The result is a luminous and juicy red with notes of sour cherry, wild strawberry and plum skin, lifted by herbs, violets and a touch of earth and spice.

There’s energy and crunch here, framed by gentle tannins and a light, drink-now body that feels more like Cru Beaujolais than classic Piedmontese reds. No oak sweetness, no excess extraction—just brightness, balance and beautiful drinkability. Best served slightly chilled with charcuterie, margherita pizza, or a bowl of agnolotti del plin.

Mattia’s wines are hard to find and made in tiny quantities, but they’re gaining cult attention among lovers of minimal-intervention Italian wine for their honesty and drinkability.