2022 S.C. Pannell Smart Vineyard Grenache, McLaren Vale

From 67-year-old vines in Clarendon. Typically, this is the prettiest of the Pannell non-estate grenache pair, but the 2022 vintage has its say. It was a cool year, but one of particular tannic fortitude. And when paired with an energetic line of acidity, this is a release to hold for a bit. Quality and character stand firm, though. Dried cranberry and raspberry, sour cherry and sumac, rhubarb, burnt orange, toasted cinnamon and rose. It’s all there, just bound up presently, a little nervy, but it will no doubt tumble out in the mid-term. It’s a fine expression more in a nebbiolo state of mind.

96 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

The S.C. Pannell Smart Vineyard Grenache from McLaren Vale is a masterclass in site expression and varietal finesse. Steve Pannell, a winemaker renowned for his deep understanding of Grenache and Mediterranean varieties, sources this fruit from the dry-grown, bush-vine Smart Vineyard, a revered site in the heart of McLaren Vale with vines planted in 1956. These deep-rooted old vines sit on red ironstone gravel over clay, yielding fruit of remarkable intensity, balance and structure.

Rather than overworking the fruit, Pannell leans into a minimalist approach. The wine sees gentle handling, whole bunch inclusion depending on the vintage, and maturation in large-format old oak, allowing the vineyard’s character to shine through without noise. The result is a perfumed, textural and utterly compelling Grenache that sits more in the Châteauneuf tradition of elegance than sheer power.

In the glass, expect red plum, wild raspberry, crushed rose petals and earthy spice. There’s an almost Pinot-like vibrancy and litheness to the palate, but with the savoury, mineral energy that defines top-shelf McLaren Vale Grenache. Fine tannins wrap it all together with polish and persistence.

This is a wine that pairs beautifully with game birds, roast duck, or chargrilled eggplant. It also has the structure to reward 8 to 10 years in the cellar.