2022 Terrazze dell'Etna Carusu Rosso, Sicily

A dark profile here with tar and graphite as well as earthy, leathery tones. Light- to medium-bodied, this has a lot of sweet fruit on the palate, crisp acidity and velvety, flavored tannins. Chewy finish with aging potential, otherwise ready to drink now.

93 points James Suckling

Terrazze dell’Etna sits high on the north western slopes of Mount Etna, where the dramatic landscape of old lava flows and stone terraces makes viticulture look slightly heroic. The estate was founded by Nino Bevilacqua, who began restoring abandoned vineyards and their ancient dry stone terraces in 2008. Carusu, meaning “young boy” in Sicilian dialect, is the youthful, immediately inviting red of the range and a terrific introduction to Etna’s indigenous varieties.

Based predominantly on Nerello Mascalese with Nerello Cappuccio, it comes from elevated volcanic vineyards where warm Sicilian sunshine meets considerably cooler mountain nights. Etna’s porous lava soils and altitude help produce reds that can be deceptively pale and fragrant yet structured underneath. The 2022 has warmth and generosity, but the mountain keeps a lovely thread of freshness running through it.

Translucent ruby garnet, with sour cherry, wild strawberry and redcurrant at the front of the bouquet. Dried rose, blood orange and violet follow, joined by fennel, black tea and a distinctive smoky volcanic note. Medium bodied and savoury, the palate has juicy red fruit, lively acidity and fine, slightly dusty tannins. Orange peel, anise and crushed lava rock appear through the middle before a dry, gently smoky finish.

Chargrilled swordfish with tomato, capers and olives would be superb, alongside tuna with sesame and blood orange, pork and fennel meatballs, mushroom arancini or smoky eggplant with tomato and ricotta salata. Our pick is the swordfish. Meaty fish, salty capers and smoky Etna red is a very Sicilian little marriage.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.