2022 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

The staggering nose of fresh pineapple invites you to a voyage to the tropics with their rich colors and lush vegetation. Then comes the no less amazing palate which is simultaneously extraordinary in concentration yet miraculously feather light. Great citrusy freshness, but it’s impossible to say which citrus fruit it is because it seems to flicker from Amalfi lemon to bergamot and then to pomelo, and on and on. Almost endless finish with the merest hint of unfermented grape sweetness. Drink or hold.

98 points jamessuckling.com

From the vertiginous blue slate slopes above the Mosel River, Graacher Domprobst is one of Germany’s most revered Riesling vineyards, producing wines of haunting finesse and longevity. The Schaefer family has tended these tiny parcels for generations, with Christoph Schaefer continuing the legacy of his father Willi through meticulous vineyard work and an almost weightless touch in the cellar. Kabinett from this site captures the essence of Mosel Riesling at its most transparent and enchanting, shaped by cool river breezes, shimmering light and mineral rich soils.

A pale straw colour with crystalline green flashes reflects the wine’s delicacy. Aromas rise with lifted notes of lime zest, green apple and white peach, drifting into hints of jasmine, wet stone and a subtle whisper of honey. There is an ethereal purity to the bouquet, a sense of calm precision that draws you gently closer.

On the palate the wine feels featherlight yet intensely focused, balancing a touch of natural sweetness with vibrant acidity and striking slate driven minerality. Flavours of citrus, orchard fruit and fresh herbs glide across the tongue before finishing long, clean and mouthwatering. Built to evolve gracefully over fifteen to twenty years, it will develop layers of dried apricot, beeswax and the classic Mosel petrol nuance while retaining its luminous energy.

This is a Riesling made for elegant, flavour driven moments. It shines with freshly shucked oysters, delicate sashimi, spicy Thai salads or roast chicken with lemon and thyme. Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett brings a sense of quiet wonder to the table, perfect for spring evenings, soft candlelight and conversations that unfold slowly as the wine reveals its many subtle dimensions.