2022 Willi Schaefer Graacher Riesling Trocken, Mosel

A rare dry Schaefer Riesling, ‘the only one’, Christoph tells me. Crystalline and focused. Brilliant stony aromatics mingle with hints of ginger and beeswax. The palate is finely etched, with petrichor and flinty, crushed-slate mineral flavours backed by lemon zest. There is a great intensity – it has fresh saline and is upright, yet it has an oak-influenced roundness of character.

94 points Decanter

Dry Riesling from the Mosel is a rarer sight, especially from a house as traditional as Willi Schaefer, but when it appears it carries the same quiet precision the estate is known for. Based in Graach and now led by Christoph Schaefer, the focus remains firmly on steep slate vineyards, careful picking and a hands off approach that lets site and vintage speak without interference.

The Graacher Trocken leans into purity and structure. Aromatics are finely etched, lime zest and lemon peel leading, with green apple and a subtle hint of white peach. There is a clear slate signature, cool, stony and slightly smoky, giving the wine its backbone and sense of place.

On the palate it is taut and linear, driven by bright, racy acidity that defines the style. The fruit is precise rather than generous, citrus and orchard notes carried along a firm mineral line. It finishes dry and persistent, with a mouth watering edge and a faint saline touch that keeps it incredibly refreshing.

Winemaking is traditional and restrained, native ferments and slow development preserving both clarity and structure. The result is a Riesling that feels focused and transparent, offering a different, more structured take on the Mosel.

This is a natural partner for fresh, clean flavours. Seafood, oysters, grilled fish or even lighter Asian dishes all work beautifully, and it also pairs well with dishes where acidity can cut through richness.

It shows beautifully now with its energy and precision, but will also develop over the next eight to twelve years, gaining more complexity while retaining that defining mineral line.