2023 Adelina Eternal Return Arneis, Adelaide Hills

Arneis by way of Riesling in a way, though it does carry a firm signature of the grape with pear, white flowers, raw almond and smattering of green herb and fennel. It has crunch, a ‘mineral’ character, green pear juiciness, maybe even a drizzle of lime/lemon, flinty texture, and a lively tonic finish of excellent length. Brisk. Invigorating.

93 points Gary Walsh winefront.com.au

With the Bowe Lees Loveys vineyard lost in the tragic fires late in 2019, Adelina now sources its Arneis from Scott Hicks and Kerry Heysen-Hicks’ Yacca Paddock vineyard, overlooking the Kuitpo Forest in the Adelaide Hills. The Hicks’ vines are some twenty years old and sit at 460 metres above sea level on sandy soils over friable clay, a favourable environment for this variety, as students of Piemonte can attest.
 
Suppose you like your Arneis in the crisp, delicate, almondy apéritif guise. In that case, this is not for you: Arneis means “little rascal” in the Piemontese dialect, and this textural, savoury rendition of site and grape lives up to that name. Here the fruit is handpicked, de-stemmed, crushed then pressed into stainless steel (90%) with a portion wild fermented in neutral barrique to add complexity. Mr Walsh is on the money with his review—this is excellent juice, succulent and textural, with the kind of zingy and super refreshing personality that encourages you to have another glass, or three.