2023 Albert Mann Les Saintes Claires Pinot Noir, Alsace

In spite of its almost racy acidity, this great Alsace pinot noir already has a seductively silky personality. A cornucopia of red berry and red beet aromas, but also incredible chalky intensity that takes your breath away, as it and the fine tannins build at the super-long finish. In spite of all the power, it’s also delicate and very subtle. From biodynamically grown grapes. One-third whole cluster. Just 12% new oak for the barrel aging.

99 points James Suckling

Domaine Albert Mann has become one of the benchmark names of Alsace, with the Barthelmé family farming organically and biodynamically long before it became fashionable. Their Pinot Noir wines in particular have earned enormous praise from critics over the last decade, helping reshape perceptions of what Alsace can achieve with the variety. Les Saintes Claires sits beautifully in that story, a wine that combines purity, perfume and structure in a way that feels distinctly cool climate and unmistakably Albert Mann.

The 2023 is wonderfully expressive from the first pour. Wild strawberry, Morello cherry and crushed raspberry lift out of the glass, layered with rose petal, forest herbs and a fine dusting of spice. There’s a freshness to the aromatics that feels almost alpine, but underneath sits something deeper, hints of forest floor, wet stone and a touch of smoky reduction that slowly unfurls with air.

Texture is where this really starts to separate itself from simpler Pinot Noir. The fruit glides rather than pushes, wrapped in ultra fine tannins that feel silky and detailed rather than firm. Acidity keeps everything bright and energetic, giving the wine length and shape, while savoury notes and gentle spice build steadily through the finish. There’s real precision here, but also plenty of charm.

Critics consistently praise Albert Mann for producing some of the most compelling Pinot Noir in Alsace, wines that manage to balance elegance with depth, and Les Saintes Claires is a perfect example of why the estate has become such a favourite among Burgundy drinkers looking for something a little different.

At the table this absolutely shines. Duck with cherry glaze feels made for it, but it’s equally brilliant with mushroom and thyme tart, crispy pork belly with plum sauce or a roasted beetroot dish with whipped goat curd and toasted hazelnuts. Slightly chilled, it becomes incredibly moreish.

Drinking beautifully now, though it will continue to evolve over the next six to eight years, gaining more earthy, savoury complexity with time.