2023 Alkimi Marsanne, Yarra Valley

From a one-acre block of unirrigated vines located in Mount Evelyn, at the base of the Dandenong Ranges. Quite golden with green tinges. Aromas of peach, honeysuckle, jasmine and a little almond make for a good opening. It's medium bodied and textural, finishing spicy and long. A delicious wine but one that I would drink sooner rather than later. Drink to 2027.

93 points Philip Rich for Halliday Wine Companion, January 2025

Stuart Dudine launched his one-man-band Alkimi in 2014. The name comes from the phonetic spelling of alchemy, the ancient practice of transforming base materials into gold through a blend of science, philosophy, and mysticism. For Stuart, these aren’t abstract ideas, but rather a way to stay connected to the land, his craft, and the intentions behind every wine he makes.

He eschews formulas, but favours natural acidity, wild yeasts and wines that are stabilised naturally. No fining agents, mostly unfiltered and minimal amounts of sulphur. For him, being a small producer isn't a limitation, but rather an advantage that allows attention to detail that is not possible at scale.

Stuart’s focus is on Yarra Valley which he believes to have great potential for the Rhône varieties and styles. He began farming an established Marsanne vineyard at Mount Evelyn in 2017, but the admiration for Rhône varieties and styles has its foundations in his formative years, learning from some of the best proponents of those wines: Stéphane Ogier, Château Mont-Redon, Henschke and Yarra Yering.

This Marsanne is Stuart’s business card, from the Wattle Glen vineyard in Mount Evelyn. Planted in 1994, the soils are of grey loam scattered with limestone and granite over yellow clay subsoils. 2023 was a cool and wet season, with harvest starting later than usual, allowing the grapes to be handpicked at a leisurely pace. These were chilled overnight, then gently pressed and fermented slowly with wild yeast. The wine was allowed to go through malolactic fermentation and left in barrels until January 2024 before being bottled unfiltered with a small amount of sulphur dioxide.

Aromas of peach, pear and white flowers, a good sprinkle of almond notes ranging from toasted to sweet marzipan. Flavours of ripe stone fruit flavours turn savoury and creamy, with a distinct spiciness. Medium-bodied, the palate feels textural and has good length.

Turn down the lights on a cooler night and chill the wine only lightly. Open with good friends and enjoy with a whole roasted cauliflower dressed with a lemony tahini sauce, toasted pine nuts, crispy chickpeas and a drizzle of pomegranate molasses. Or pan-sear pork cutlets and serve these with spaetzle and a creamy chanterelle and tarragon reduction.

This wine is vegan friendly.