2023 Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Hochstrasser Federspiel, Wachau

Alzinger is one of those Wachau estates that rarely needs to shout. Based in Unterloiben, the family has built its reputation on beautifully controlled, site driven wines, with Leo Alzinger and his son Leo producing some of the region’s most sought after Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners. Hochstrasser sits away from the blockbuster end of the range, and in the lighter Federspiel category it is all about freshness, fragrance and the effortless drinkability that Grüner can do so well.

The 2023 season gave the Wachau plenty of ripeness, but Federspiel keeps the emphasis firmly on energy rather than weight. Grüner Veltliner’s orchard fruit, herbs and characteristic peppery bite are particularly clear here, with a gentle savoury texture adding interest without pushing the wine towards the richer territory of Smaragd.

Pale straw with green highlights, opening with Nashi pear, green apple and white peach. Lemon zest and delicate blossom follow, joined by white pepper, fennel and a little radish leaf. The palate is dry, crisp and lightly textured, with pear and citrus carried by bright acidity. Pepper and fresh herbs provide a savoury snap before a clean, gently mineral finish.

Prawn and chive dumplings would be terrific, alongside salt and pepper squid, schnitzel with cucumber salad, asparagus with sesame and miso or Vietnamese rice paper rolls packed with herbs. Our pick is the dumplings. Sweet prawns, ginger and chives make very good friends with Grüner’s pear and pepper.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.