2023 Alzinger Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd, Wachau

An elegant and cool yet full-bodied riesling, both ripe and fresh, showing notes of lemon, white pear, honey and rosemary, even some persimmon. Crushed-stone minerality coming through. Long and composed. This will open up nicely. Try from 2025.

96 points James Suckling

Leo Alzinger and his son Leo are among the Wachau’s most admired growers, working from Unterloiben at the eastern end of the valley. Their wines are celebrated for restraint rather than sheer power, even at Smaragd level. Loibenberg is one of their great sites, a steep, sun drenched terraced vineyard rising above the Danube and capable of producing Riesling with both impressive ripeness and a distinctly rocky backbone.

Loibenberg’s weathered Gföhler gneiss soils absorb warmth during the day, while cooler air descending towards the river helps preserve acidity and perfume. The 2023 season produced beautifully expressive Wachau Riesling, and in Alzinger’s hands the natural generosity of Loibenberg is kept firmly in check. Smaragd gives concentration and depth, but the wine remains dry, focused and wonderfully energetic.

Bright pale gold, with lime, white peach and ripe apricot leading into grapefruit, lemon blossom and a touch of chamomile. Crushed stone, fresh ginger and a faint smoky note appear with air. The palate has real presence, combining ripe stone fruit with citrus acidity and a firm mineral grip. Preserved lemon and apricot give way to wet stone and a subtle herbal note, with a long, dry finish that feels powerful without becoming heavy.

Steamed coral trout with ginger and spring onion would be terrific, as would king prawns with lemongrass butter, Vietnamese turmeric fish with dill, pork belly with ginger and five spice or cauliflower with sesame and miso. Our pick is the coral trout, where the delicate sweetness of the fish and aromatic ginger play beautifully with the wine’s citrus and stone fruit.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2042.