2023 Anselmi Capitel Croce IGT, Veneto

Distinct gold colour with lemon-yellow tendencies. Inviting bouquet, with cold smoke and toasted white bread crust, backed by fine savouriness and juicy apricot. Lots of substance and rich fruit on the palate, velvety texture, right onto the lingering finish.

92 points Falstaff

Roberto Anselmi has never been particularly interested in following the crowd. One of the most influential figures in the modern history of Soave, he famously withdrew his wines from the appellation in 2000, convinced that its regulations did not adequately protect the quality and individuality of the region's best vineyards. Based in Monteforte d'Alpone, the family estate has built an international reputation for beautifully crafted Garganega, with Roberto's children, Tommaso and Lisa, now closely involved in its future. Capitel Croce is one of the estate's most distinctive whites, demonstrating just how much richness and complexity this traditional Veneto variety can achieve.

Made entirely from Garganega, Capitel Croce comes from a carefully selected hillside vineyard in the Soave growing area, where limestone soils contribute structure and a distinctive mineral character. Unlike the estate's fresher, more immediately approachable whites, this wine is fermented and matured in oak, giving it additional texture, depth and ageing potential. The 2023 vintage combines ripe orchard fruit with Garganega's natural citrus freshness and delicate almond character. Oak is an important part of the style, but the intention is balance rather than overt richness, allowing the vineyard's character to remain clearly defined.

Bright straw yellow with golden reflections. Ripe pear, yellow peach and lemon curd mingle with white flowers, toasted almond and a touch of vanilla. Notes of chamomile, honeycomb and subtle baking spice emerge as the wine opens. The palate is generous and beautifully textured, with ripe stone fruit, citrus and a creamy, gently rounded character. Fresh acidity and a fine mineral thread provide balance, while toasted hazelnut, almond and savoury spice develop through the middle. The finish is long and persistent, with lingering citrus peel and a delicate suggestion of oak. A wonderfully satisfying white that combines richness with genuine elegance.

Grilled scallops with browned butter, roast snapper with lemon and herbs or a creamy crab linguine would be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with mushroom risotto, pumpkin ravioli with sage butter or roast cauliflower with Parmesan and toasted almonds. Serve cool rather than icy cold, allowing the wine's lovely texture and aromatic complexity to emerge.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. Already appealing for its richness and freshness, with the structure to develop additional honeyed and savoury complexity over the next several years.