2023 Apogee Alto Pinot Noir, Piper's River

An earthy, purely formed pinot noir showing appealing gamey complexity and ripe red cherry, dried cranberry, wild strawberry and raspberry fruits. Hints of exotic spice, hoisin, Peking duck, shoyu, roast game, sous bois, dried citrus rind and shiitake. The wild strawberry ramps up on the palate, a little more concentration than the 2022 but that umami ache, purity, gorgeous swell of fruit and length of flavour remain. Great drinking.

95 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Apogee Alto Pinot Noir from Pipers River in northern Tasmania is a beautifully detailed and finely structured wine that showcases both the precision of cool climate viticulture and the craftsmanship of winemaker Andrew Pirie. One of Australia’s most respected wine pioneers, Pirie established Apogee with the goal of producing single vineyard wines of true site expression. The Alto vineyard sits in a sheltered amphitheatre in the Pipers River district, where long, cool growing seasons and maritime breezes shape wines of purity, elegance and remarkable longevity.

The fruit for the Apogee Alto Pinot Noir is hand picked from low-yielding vines planted in rich, ferrosol soils derived from volcanic basalt. These deep red soils impart mineral complexity and natural concentration. The grapes are gently destemmed with a small proportion of whole bunches included to add perfume and structure. Fermentation occurs with native yeasts in small open fermenters, followed by maturation in fine French oak barriques, around a quarter of them new, for 10 to 12 months.

In the glass it shows a bright garnet hue. The aroma is beautifully lifted, offering wild strawberry, red cherry and raspberry alongside hints of rose petal, spice and forest floor. On the palate it is medium bodied and silky, combining vibrant red fruit with subtle earthy undertones and finely grained tannins. The finish is long, savoury and elegant, with that hallmark Pipers River freshness and precision that make Tasmanian Pinot Noir so distinctive.

Apogee Alto Pinot Noir pairs beautifully with duck breast, roast chicken, mushroom risotto or grilled salmon. It also complements earthy vegetable dishes and soft cheeses. While wonderfully expressive now, it has the structure and balance to cellar gracefully for up to ten years, gaining savoury depth and truffle-like complexity with age.