2023 Apricus Hill Semillon, Denmark

The fruit here is sourced from the highest vineyard in the Denmark region of Western Australia. A pale lemon colour, the nose exhibits hints of citrus, green salad notes and figs. An elegant style, it is fresh though still very youthful with bright, zesty acidity carrying the palate. Everything is in place for it to drink well for the next decade. Impressive length, the wine is clean and vital with good energy. Drink 2024 to 2034.

92 points Ken Gargett for Wine Pilot, April 2024

Wines from the Apricus Hill vineyard are made by James Kellie of Harewood Estate, a Halliday Five Star winery for 17 consecutive years. It was planted in 1995 and is the highest vineyard in the Denmark subregion at 229 metres above sea level. The Southern Ocean defines the style here, its cooling influence felt across the whole growing season in this remarkably beautiful amphitheatre of vines on a south-facing slope.

Free-run juice only, cold fermented in stainless steel with no oak contact. The approach is deliberately hands-off, letting the site and the variety do the work.

The 2023 is a Semillon of real freshness and energy — lemon, cut grass, snow peas and blossom on the nose, with a vibrant, zesty acidity that drives the palate through citrus and passionfruit to a clean, mineral finish. Youthful and punchy now, with the length and vitality to develop over the next several years.

While young, the wine's citrus brightness and clean acidity are natural partners for anything fresh and light: grilled flathead with lemon and capers, a Vietnamese green papaya salad with prawns and lime, or a zucchini and herb frittata.

Drink now through 2034.