2023 Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir, Bicheno

Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir from Bicheno on Tasmania’s east coast is a cult classic, known for its power, complexity and unmistakable wildness. The vineyard is perched just outside the seaside town of Bicheno, where cool ocean breezes and long sunshine hours create ideal conditions for ripening Pinot Noir with depth and tension. The granite-based soils and low yields give this wine its distinctive structure and savoury edge.

Winemaker Brian Franklin brings a Burgundian sensibility to his craft. Having worked harvests in Gevrey-Chambertin with Domaine Jayer-Gilles, his approach marries whole bunch fermentation, wild yeasts and extended barrel ageing in French oak. This Pinot is built to age and made without compromise.

It pours deep and brooding, with aromas of black cherry, plum skin, earthy spice and crushed herbs. On the palate, it’s dark, layered and full-bodied for a Tasmanian Pinot, with fine tannins, tangy acidity and a long finish shaped by oak, mineral drive and a flicker of wild thyme. It’s as far from delicate as Pinot gets in this part of the world.

Serve it with duck ragu, venison, mushroom risotto or charred eggplant. Decant for a few hours if drinking young, or cellar confidently for 10 to 15 years.