2024 Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir, Bicheno

Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir from Bicheno is one of Tasmania’s most distinctive and collectible wines, and much of its cult status comes from the vision and training of its winemaker, Brian Franklin. Before establishing Apsley Gorge in the 1990s, Franklin worked vintages in Burgundy, most notably with Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny — one of the region’s most revered domaines. That experience shaped his entire approach to Pinot Noir, and it shows clearly in the style of wine he crafts.

Where many Tasmanian Pinots lean toward bright, fruit-forward charm, Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir is unapologetically Burgundian in its depth, savoury detail and structure. Franklin uses traditional Burgundian techniques: wild fermentations, significant whole-bunch inclusion, long macerations and maturation in fine French oak sourced from Burgundy itself. The aim is not simply to emulate the Côte d’Or but to translate Tasmania’s east coast terroir through a lens of Burgundian craft.

The result is a Pinot Noir that marries the wild, windswept character of Bicheno’s maritime climate with the layered complexity of great Burgundy. Dark cherry, plum and wild strawberry are joined by forest floor, smoke, spice and gamey nuances, with tannins that are chalky and fine, giving the wine both structure and longevity. It is built for the cellar, evolving over 10–15 years into a wine of haunting savoury depth, with echoes of truffle and leather.

This Burgundian connection is what sets Apsley Gorge apart and is one of the reasons critics and sommeliers consider it a cult wine. It is made in tiny quantities, its allocation often snapped up before release, and it remains one of Australia’s most distinctive Pinot Noirs for collectors who want something with both place and pedigree..

Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir has firmly established itself as one of Tasmania’s true cult wines, not only for its Burgundian-inspired style but also for its scarcity. The Bicheno vineyard is steep, windswept, and difficult to farm, producing very small yields each year. Combined with the fact that winemaker Brian Franklin makes only tiny volumes, demand for the wine always exceeds supply. Allocations are tightly controlled, and bottles are often spoken for well before release, making it a prize for collectors and sommeliers alike.

The wine’s reputation has been amplified by Franklin’s direct Burgundy connection through his work at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. This link to one of Chambolle-Musigny’s great domaines has made Apsley Gorge Pinot Noir a favourite among sommeliers in Australia’s top restaurants, where its savoury, structured style fits comfortably alongside grand cru Burgundy. As a result, it has become increasingly difficult to find on the retail market, adding to its mystique.

For collectors, the allure lies not just in scarcity but also in longevity. The wine regularly rewards 10 to 15 years of cellaring, evolving into layers of truffle, earth and game while holding its core of fruit. In both investment and enjoyment terms, it is a bottle that over-delivers and continues to grow in reputation each vintage.