2023 Argiano Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany

Cherries and strawberries lead off the nose, followed by lots of fresh wild herb aromas of fennel and especially mint. The palate adds a smear of orange jam to more cherry and wild herb notes, before a finish where chili pepper heat sparks against sleek, polished tannins, like a fire blazing in a stone fireplace.

94 points James Suckling

There is something particularly appealing about a historic Brunello estate making a Rosso di Montalcino with the same care and attention as its more prestigious wines. Argiano's story stretches back to the sixteenth century, and its magnificent Renaissance villa remains one of the landmarks of southern Montalcino. Under the direction of Bernardino Sani, the estate has embraced organic viticulture and a thoughtful, less interventionist approach to winemaking. The results have been impressive, and the Rosso is a lovely introduction to the elegance and personality that define modern Argiano.

Sangiovese is the sole variety here, grown on the estate's vineyards in the southwestern part of Montalcino. The 2023 vintage experienced a challenging spring, with rainfall requiring careful vineyard management, followed by warmer conditions that helped bring the fruit to maturity. Rather than pursuing the concentration and extended maturation associated with Brunello, Argiano shapes its Rosso around freshness, aromatic detail and approachable tannins. The result is a distinctly Tuscan red with enough substance for the dinner table and plenty of youthful charm.

Clear ruby red with bright garnet edges. Red cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry mingle with violet, dried thyme and a little orange zest. Subtle notes of liquorice, earth and sweet spice appear with air. The palate is juicy and finely balanced, with fresh red fruit, supple tannins and lively acidity. A savoury thread of dried herbs and crushed stone gives the wine additional interest, while the finish is clean, gently earthy and pleasantly persistent. There is a lovely combination of generosity and restraint, making it both immediately enjoyable and unmistakably Sangiovese.

Wild mushroom risotto, eggplant Parmigiana or tomato and basil pappardelle would be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with roast chicken, grilled lamb cutlets or a simple plate of aged Pecorino and good olives. Serve just below room temperature to highlight its bright fruit and freshness, particularly during the warmer months.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030. Delicious in its youth, with enough structure to develop a little more savoury complexity over the next few years.