2023 Ata Rangi Potiki Chardonnay, Martinborough

A compact yet rich chardonnay for this vintage, showing cooked apples, pears and hints of smoky aromas and flavors with some grilled oak and flint at the end. Lemongrass and white flowers too. Medium- to full-bodied, this has attractive fruit and a spicy finish. Lots going on here. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

95 points jamessuckling.com

Potiki is Ata Rangi’s introduction to Chardonnay, but it carries the same estate discipline that made the winery one of Martinborough’s great names. Founded in 1980 by Clive Paton and still family run, Ata Rangi helped define New Zealand cool climate winemaking through obsessive site selection and patient vineyard work. The name Potiki, meaning youngest child, reflects the wine’s role in the family, approachable yet shaped by serious intent. Today the style is guided by winemaker Helen Masters, whose focus is clarity, texture and longevity.

Fruit comes from estate vineyards planted on ancient river terraces of gravel and clay, soils that naturally limit vigour and concentrate flavour. Whole bunch pressing preserves delicacy, fermentation is carefully managed to build complexity, and extended lees contact adds a creamy undercurrent without blurring acidity. Oak is integrated as structure rather than flavour. The aim is balance and precision.

Pale gold in colour, the aromas open with white peach, lemon curd and nectarine layered with cashew, flint and subtle spice. The palate is medium bodied and tightly framed, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped in bright acidity and a chalk edged texture. Flavours stretch long through a mineral finish that feels cool and focused.

It pairs beautifully with seafood, roast chicken and butter rich sauces. Already impressive for its energy, it will cellar comfortably for eight to twelve years, developing nutty and savoury complexity.

This is Martinborough Chardonnay with estate pedigree, refined, textural and quietly powerful.