2023 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Montmains, Burgundy

Discreet wood frames pretty and elegant aromas that include those of essence of pear, white flowers and moderate Chablis typicity. The generous and seductively textured medium weight flavors possess a sappy mouthfeel while displaying fine length on the markedly saline finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth.

90-92 points burghound.com 2030+

Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Montmains is a classic, mineral-focused expression of one of Chablis’ most respected premier cru vineyards on the left bank of the Serein River. Known for its cooler microclimate and clay-limestone soils rich in Kimmeridgian marl, Montmains produces wines with a distinctive saline edge, sharp citrus tension and subtle floral lift. In the hands of the Defaix family, who have been farming organically since the early 2000s, the vineyard’s finesse and structure are given full voice.

Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel, followed by ageing on fine lees for around 12 months to build texture and integration without masking the vineyard’s natural energy. The result is a wine that is clean and precise, yet quietly complex.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of lemon zest, green apple, white flowers, sea spray and crushed stone. The palate is linear and racy, driven by citrus fruit and oyster shell salinity, with a taut, chalky texture and a crisp, dry finish. It’s a wine of clarity and length, with subtle grip and serious ageing potential.

Food pairing: perfect with oysters, grilled prawns, roast chicken with lemon and herbs, goat cheese tart, or sushi. Also excellent with white fish in beurre blanc or fresh chèvre.

Cellar potential: delicious young for its tension and citrus purity, but will develop beautifully over 6 to 10 years, gaining savoury depth, roundness and gentle nutty complexity.