2023 Bernard Defaix Montee de Tonnerre Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

“Didier calls this "more tonic", and it does have a refreshing, feel-good vibrancy. Detailed on the nose with forward scents of citrus zest, toasted almonds and sea shore, more of the same follows on the doubly intense palate. Crisply dry and already very complete, this is one not to miss in the line-up.”

94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report

(from Chapelot). Once again the wood treatment is subtle but easily perceptible on the more floral-suffused aromas of just sliced citrus, sea breeze and iodine. There is fine volume to the lightly stony medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a bone-dry, citrusy and balanced finale that exhibits solid length. Lovely.

90-93 points burghound.com Drink 2030+

Bernard Defaix Montée de Tonnerre Chablis 1er Cru is a refined and deeply expressive white wine from one of the most prized premier cru vineyards in Chablis. Located just southeast of the Grand Cru slope, Montée de Tonnerre is often considered the most “grand cru-like” of the premiers, thanks to its Kimmeridgian limestone soils, steep exposition and its ability to deliver wines with both power and precision. Defaix’s organic farming and restrained winemaking style let this exceptional site shine in full detail.

Grapes are hand-harvested from 30 to 40-year-old vines, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in a mix of stainless steel and older oak barrels for added complexity and texture. The result is a wine that marries Chablis’ hallmark tension and minerality with the layered richness of a top-tier vineyard.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of lemon curd, white peach, oyster shell, flint and subtle hazelnut. The palate is intense and tightly coiled, with citrus, green apple and chalky mineral depth, framed by vivid acidity and a long, saline finish. There’s texture and energy in perfect balance, and a sense of quiet power that makes this wine age-worthy and contemplative.

Food pairing: excellent with shellfish, seared scallops, grilled Dover sole, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or goat’s cheese and herb tart. Also superb with creamy seafood pastas or sashimi.

Cellar potential: already expressive in youth but will evolve beautifully over 8 to 12 years, gaining nuttiness, savoury depth and even greater mineral complexity.