2023 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, Burgundy

Here too the wood treatment is agreeably subtle if perceptible on the ripe and layered aromas of citrus confit, poached pear, shellfish and a hint of wet stone. Here too there is excellent volume to the beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors that flash evident power and minerality on the sappy, saline and dry finale that is sneaky long. This is also well-worth considering.

90-93 points burghound.com Drink 2029+ Top Value

Bernard Defaix Côte de Léchet Chablis 1er Cru is a benchmark expression of this steep, sunlit premier cru vineyard on the left bank of the Serein River. Known for its Kimmeridgian limestone soils and dramatic slope, Côte de Léchet produces wines of crystalline purity, tight structure and unmistakable mineral depth. In the hands of the Defaix family — pioneers of organic viticulture in Chablis — this site yields a wine that is focused, precise and long-lived, with all the hallmarks of top-tier premier cru Chablis.

The fruit is hand-harvested and fermented with native yeasts, then aged on fine lees in stainless steel for added texture without oak influence. The wine remains in tank for over 12 months, allowing time for full integration of fruit and minerality before bottling.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of lemon zest, white peach, sea spray, chalk and green almond. The palate is dry, linear and tense, showing vibrant citrus and orchard fruit layered over crushed rock and a stony, saline core. There’s a touch of white pepper and herb on the finish, which is long and lifted with classic Chablis clarity.

Food pairing: ideal with oysters, sashimi, grilled prawns, goat cheese and herb tart, or roast chicken with lemon and thyme. Also excellent with white asparagus or creamy seafood pastas.

Cellar potential: will age gracefully over 8 to 12 years, gaining subtle honeyed and savoury notes while retaining its mineral backbone.