2023 Bernard Defaix Cote de Lechet Reserve Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

“Smelling of yellow plum tart, lemon oil and toasted hazelnuts, this has a delightfully rounded, viscous texture. There is a pleasant, amaro-like bitterness on the lengthy finish. The fruit from these 50-plus-year-old vines sees 50% oak, and Didier is using more and more 500 L barrels, even on the Côte de Léchet cuvées.”

94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report

(from 50+ year old vines aged in 40% oak though none of it is new). Ripe aromas of white and yellow peach. There is excellent volume to the very rich, even plush, medium weight plus flavors that exhibit a distinctly bitter lemon finish on the ever-so-slightly warm finale. 2023.

89-91 points burghound.com Drink 2029+

Bernard Defaix Côte de Léchet Réserve Chablis 1er Cru is a beautifully focused and age-worthy expression of one of the most distinctive premier cru vineyards on the left bank of the Serein River. Known for its steep, south-facing slopes and high proportion of Kimmeridgian limestone, Côte de Léchet delivers Chablis with purity, drive and mineral depth. The Réserve bottling takes this even further — crafted from the estate’s oldest vines and aged longer on lees, it’s a more layered, structured version of the classic cuvée.

Defaix farms organically and harvests by hand, with meticulous attention to detail in both vineyard and cellar. The Réserve sees extended lees contact and partial vinification in neutral oak, bringing added texture and subtle complexity without masking the terroir. It’s a wine built for both immediate pleasure and long-term ageing.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, oyster shell, almond skin and a whisper of flint. The palate is precise and taut, with layers of citrus, green apple and chalky minerality wrapped in a fine lees texture. There’s real length and tension, finishing with a saline edge and gentle savoury grip that lingers.

Food pairing: excellent with oysters, grilled langoustines, white asparagus with beurre blanc, roast chicken with tarragon or a goat cheese and herb tart. Also a great match for sushi and sashimi.

Cellar potential: delicious now with air but will evolve beautifully over 8 to 12 years, developing more savoury, nutty notes and deepening its mineral character.