2023 Bernard Dugat-Py Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

A white Burgundy from one of Gevrey Chambertin's most revered domaines is always worth a closer look. Bernard Dugat-Py traces its family roots in the village back generations, with Bernard establishing the domaine's formidable reputation and his son Loïc now directing winemaking. Organic vineyard practices, careful oak ageing and an unwavering respect for terroir are central to the family's philosophy, producing wines with remarkable concentration and character.

Pale golden straw with delicate green reflections. Ripe pear, white peach and lemon zest mingle with acacia blossom, toasted hazelnut and a whisper of flinty smoke. The 2023 vintage has lovely richness without sacrificing freshness, with finely textured Chardonnay fruit, vibrant acidity and a subtle mineral character. A long, savoury finish gives this Bourgogne Blanc considerably more personality than its modest appellation suggests.

Wonderful with grilled King George whiting and lemon, crab and chive soufflé, or roasted celeriac with brown butter and hazelnuts. A delicious introduction to this celebrated Burgundian family.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Beautifully balanced for drinking over the next several years.