2023 Billy Button The Classic Chardonnay, Alpine Valley

Made to be enjoyed upon release, fully formed and in balance. Puts forward a sunny disposition in stone fruits and citrus with a touch of toasted cashews and almond mealiness. Vanillin oak is an attractive adjunct but never intrusive. Tautness and flesh equals all-round good balance.

92 points Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

High in Victoria’s north east, where mountain air keeps the nights cool and the growing season stretches long into autumn, Billy Button crafts a Chardonnay that captures Alpine Valley energy and charm. Founded by Jo Marsh in 2012, Billy Button Wines has become one of the region’s most exciting voices, championing alternative varieties and cool climate precision with a light touch in the cellar. Fruit for the Chardonnay comes from elevated sites where granite influenced soils and big diurnal swings help preserve natural acidity while building flavour intensity.

Pale straw with a bright green edge, the aromatics are fresh and inviting. White peach, nectarine and lemon zest lift from the glass, joined by hints of grapefruit, cashew and a subtle flinty nuance. There is a clean, mountain freshness that keeps everything focused and lively.

On the palate it is medium bodied and beautifully balanced, combining stone fruit generosity with vibrant acidity. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across a lightly creamy mid palate shaped by gentle lees work and restrained oak. The finish is clean, energetic and lightly mineral, lingering with lemon curd and toasted almond notes. It is a modern cool climate Chardonnay with both texture and tension.

Pair with grilled scallops, roast chicken with thyme, pork schnitzel or mushroom risotto. Enjoy now for its brightness and freshness, or cellar confidently for six to ten years as it develops nutty complexity and greater depth.

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