2023 Caroline Morey Chassagne Montrachet Chambrees, Burgundy

Pale lemon and lime. Quite a refined bouquet, majoring on elegance rather than weight. Delicate, nuanced, good acidity, a pure and perfumed Chassagne for the medium term. Not too reductive at this stage. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com 

Caroline Morey has quietly become one of the most compelling voices in Chassagne Montrachet, carving out her own identity after years working alongside Pierre Yves Colin Morey. Her wines lean into purity and site expression, with a gentle hand in the cellar and a clear respect for the vineyards she farms. Les Chambrees sits just below the Puligny border, on classic limestone rich soils that give Chardonnay both flesh and a finely drawn mineral edge.

The 2023 in magnum feels like it was made for the long haul. There’s a beautiful lift of citrus blossom, lemon curd and white peach, layered with hazelnut, fresh cream and a faint whisper of struck match that adds intrigue without overwhelming. It carries more generosity than Puligny, but there’s still a line of freshness running right through it, keeping everything poised and detailed. The larger format brings an extra sense of harmony, the flavours already knitting together, the texture broad yet controlled, finishing long with a saline, almost chalky grip.

This is a dream with seafood that has a bit of richness. Lobster with a light butter sauce, scallops with cauliflower and brown butter, or a beautifully roasted turbot would all sit comfortably here. It also leans nicely into poultry, especially something like chicken with morels or a gently creamy vin jaune style sauce.

Magnum changes the conversation slightly. You can enjoy it now with a bit of air, but this format is built to age slowly and gracefully. Give it 10 to 15 years and it will take on deeper nutty, honeyed complexity while holding that Chassagne tension.