2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Perrieres 1er Cru, Burgundy

Perrières is one of those sites in Meursault that behaves more like a Grand Cru in all but name, all broken limestone and old quarry soils that seem to channel energy straight into the glass. In the hands of Pierre Yves Colin Morey, it becomes something even more compelling. After forging his own path away from the family domaine, he built a reputation on precision and restraint, picking on the early side, using minimal new oak, and letting the vineyard speak with remarkable clarity.

The 2023 is tightly coiled at first, then slowly opens to reveal layers of lemon zest, green apple and white peach, backed by crushed rock, hazelnut and a fine thread of smoky reduction. There’s real intensity here, but it’s carried with a sense of lift rather than weight. The texture is sleek, almost chiselled, with acidity cutting a long, saline line through the palate. Perrières always has that extra drive, and you feel it here in the way the finish keeps going, precise and quietly powerful.

This calls for seafood with a bit of substance. Think roasted lobster with a light butter and herb glaze, John Dory with capers and lemon, or even a beautifully cooked marron if you want to lean local. It also handles morels and poultry with ease, especially dishes where earthiness and richness need something to keep them in check.

Give it time. Ten to twenty years is not unreasonable for a wine like this, and magnum like patience even more, though even in standard bottle this will evolve slowly, gaining depth, savoury complexity and that unmistakable Perrières intensity.