2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Charmes 1er Cru, Burgundy

Charmes is the more generous, open heart of Meursault, sitting on deeper soils that naturally give a broader, more enveloping style than Perrières, and Pierre Yves Colin Morey handles it with a precision that keeps everything in check. Since stepping out on his own, he’s become one of Burgundy’s most respected modern voices, known for capturing site expression without excess weight, letting fruit, minerality and texture sit in perfect balance.

The 2023 shows that contrast beautifully. There’s an immediate sense of charm, ripe lemon, poached pear and white peach, layered with toasted almond, a hint of pastry and a gentle flicker of reduction. It feels more generous on entry than some of his Puligny wines, but there’s still a fine line of acidity threading through, keeping it focused and fresh. The texture is supple, almost creamy, yet never heavy, finishing with a soft, chalky grip that brings it back into line.

This is a natural partner for richer seafood. Think butter roasted lobster, scallops with a light cauliflower purée, or even a crab tart with a touch of citrus. It also leans beautifully into poultry, especially dishes with a bit of depth like roast chicken with truffle or a silky mushroom driven sauce.

There’s plenty of pleasure here already, especially with a bit of air, but it will reward patience. Over the next 8 to 15 years it will gain that classic Meursault nuttiness and savoury complexity while holding onto its shape.