2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Le Porusot 1er Cru, Burgundy

Le Porusot sits just below Genevrières on the Puligny side of Meursault, a Premier Cru that often flies under the radar but can deliver remarkable precision when handled well. The soils here are classic limestone with a little more depth than Perrières, giving a wine that balances tension and generosity. In the hands of Pierre Yves Colin Morey, it becomes a study in control and detail, shaped by his now trademark approach of early picking, restrained oak and a focus on clarity over weight.

The 2023 opens with a fine, lifted profile of lemon zest, white peach and crisp apple, followed by crushed stone, almond and a subtle smoky edge that gradually melts into the wine with air. There’s a quiet power here rather than anything overt. The palate is taut and linear, but not austere, with a gentle widening through the mid palate before tightening again into a long, mineral finish. It sits somewhere between the drive of Perrières and the breadth of Charmes, which makes it particularly compelling.

This is built for seafood that carries a bit of texture. Think grilled John Dory with brown butter and capers, scallops with a light saffron broth, or even a delicate lobster dish where the sweetness of the meat meets that saline edge. It also works beautifully with more subtle poultry dishes, especially where mushrooms or light jus come into play.

There’s plenty to enjoy now with a good decant, but this will reward patience. Give it 10 to 15 years and it will develop deeper nutty notes and a more layered, savoury profile while keeping that fine mineral line intact.