2023 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Montrachet Grandes Ruchottes 1er Cru, Burgundy

Ex Jean-Pierre Cornut. An even clear colour. Some nobility to the nose though the style tames the luxury you might find elsewhere, at least on the nose. Builds well on the palate, juicy fruit with a fine backbone and impeccable length. Picked on 30th August and delivers really well. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted Oct 2024.

93-96 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Tucked up on the higher, stonier slopes of Chassagne, Grandes Ruchottes tends to deliver a more finely cut, almost Puligny like expression of the village, and it’s a site that suits Pierre Yves Colin Morey perfectly. Since stepping out on his own, he’s built a reputation on clarity and restraint, working with a light hand so that each vineyard speaks with precision rather than power.

The 2023 leans into that character. There’s a lifted mix of lemon zest, white peach and green apple, with a cool, stony edge running through it from the first swirl. A touch of almond and a gentle smoky note add complexity, but nothing feels pushed. It’s all about line and detail here, the palate taut and focused, carrying a fine thread of acidity that stretches the wine out into a long, mineral finish. There’s depth, but it reveals itself slowly, gaining nuance with air.

This is a great fit for seafood that keeps things clean and precise. Oysters, sashimi or a lightly cured kingfish dish all work beautifully, as do simply grilled prawns with a squeeze of citrus. It can also step into more layered territory, think roast chicken with a delicate jus or a dish built around mushrooms and herbs.

There’s plenty of energy now, but it’s built to evolve. Give it 8 to 15 years and it will gain breadth and a gentle nutty complexity while holding onto that fine, stony backbone.