2023 Château-Fuissé Saint-Véran, Burgundy

From Les Cras (chalky minerals, flinty), Le Clos in Davayé (structure from the weight) and some upper Chasselas vineyards (citrus fruit on yellow limestone), picked in that order with up to two weeks difference. Vinified separately. A fleshier, slightly lactic nose even though all has been made in stainless steel. The quality picks up nicely on the palate, with the Clos component providing the broad base, and the other two vineyards giving the lifted character. 13% alcohol. Drink from 2026-2028. Tasted Jun 2025.

89 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Château Fuissé has long been one of the great names of the Mâconnais, with the Vincent family crafting Chardonnay in southern Burgundy for five generations. While the estate is best known for its celebrated Pouilly Fuissé wines, their Saint Véran consistently overdelivers, capturing the freshness, limestone minerality and generous fruit that make the region such a smart buy for white Burgundy lovers. The vineyards sit on rolling limestone slopes just south of Pouilly Fuissé, where cool nights help preserve brightness and precision in the fruit.

The 2023 vintage is vibrant and beautifully expressive, opening with aromas of white peach, ripe lemon and pear alongside hints of acacia blossom, almond pastry and wet stone. There is a lovely balance here between creamy texture and crisp mineral tension, giving the wine both charm and energy. Subtle lees work adds depth and a gentle nutty complexity, while the finish remains clean, citrus driven and refreshingly saline. It feels polished and generous without losing the lively freshness that defines great Saint Véran.

This is the kind of Chardonnay that feels equally at home at a long lunch or a more serious dinner table. Fresh oysters, grilled prawns or roast chicken with tarragon would all be superb matches. It would also shine beside creamy mushroom risotto, flaky white fish or a warm comté tart straight from the oven. As the wine opens in the glass, more savoury and mineral detail emerges, making it a bottle that quietly becomes more impressive with every sip.