2023 Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough

Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc is one of New Zealand’s most distinctive and sophisticated white wines, reimagining Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc through wild fermentation, oak aging, and extended lees contact. First released in 2000, Te Koko was a groundbreaking departure from the region’s classic crisp style, showing that Sauvignon Blanc could be textural, layered, and cellarworthy. The name “Te Koko” refers to Te Koko-o-Kupe, the original Māori name for Cloudy Bay, honouring the area’s heritage.

The fruit is sourced from the estate’s best vineyards in the Southern Valleys, Rapaura, and Brancott Valley. These sites have free-draining alluvial soils and benefit from Marlborough’s cool nights and long sunny days, which preserve bright acidity and allow for full flavour development. The grapes are hand harvested, then undergo wild fermentation in French oak barrels (a mix of new and seasoned), followed by a period of maturation on lees with bâtonnage. This approach builds texture, savoury complexity, and a creamy mouthfeel while retaining Sauvignon Blanc’s vibrant core.

In the glass, Te Koko shows a pale gold hue with aromas of ripe citrus, nectarine, white florals, flint, and subtle smoky notes. The palate is layered and complex, with lemon curd, peach, and grapefruit interwoven with brioche, struck match, and savoury spice. The texture is rich and silky, balanced by a lively thread of acidity and a long, mineral finish. It’s a wine that bridges the gap between New Zealand vibrancy and Old World sophistication, often compared stylistically to top white Bordeaux or fine Loire barrel-fermented Sauvignon.

Te Koko pairs beautifully with dishes like seared scallops, lobster with beurre blanc, roast chicken with tarragon, or creamy pasta with wild mushrooms. It’s also superb with soft goat’s cheese and herb-based dishes. While ready to enjoy on release, it can cellar gracefully for 8 to 10 years, gaining further nutty and toasty depth with time.