2023 Combier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Laurent Organic, Northern Rhone

A pure, poised, fleshy and refreshing syrah with cherries, fresh black pepper and violets on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. Refined texture, juicy berry character and a lovely floral and succulent finish with a lift of violets and peppercorns. Drink or hold.

92 points James Suckling

Laurent Combier is one of the names that helped reshape the reputation of Crozes Hermitage. The Combier family began farming at Pont de l’Isère in the 1930s, initially growing fruit alongside vines, before Laurent returned to the domaine in the late 1980s and pushed decisively towards quality winegrowing. Organic farming has been central to the estate for decades, long before it became fashionable, and today Laurent works alongside the next generation of the family.

Cuvée Laurent is a beautifully direct expression of Syrah from Crozes Hermitage, drawing on the domaine’s organically farmed vineyards on the eastern side of the Rhône. The 2023 vintage gives the wine plenty of dark fruit without losing the pepper, violet and savoury character that makes Northern Rhône Syrah so appealing. There is no attempt to turn it into a miniature Hermitage. The pleasure is in its freshness, perfume and wonderfully drinkable shape.

Deep ruby purple with blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry at the front, followed by violet, cracked black pepper and black olive. Liquorice, rosemary and a little smoked meat add savoury detail, with a faint graphite note underneath. The palate is medium bodied and juicy, its dark fruit framed by fresh acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Pepper, olive and blackberry carry through a lively, savoury finish.

Charred eggplant with lentils, yoghurt and za’atar works brilliantly with the peppery Syrah character. Duck breast with blackberry sauce, lamb kofta, grilled mushrooms with thyme or Korean beef bulgogi can take things in completely different directions. Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.