2023 Coriole Reserve Rubato Fiano, McLaren Vale

This is a stellar bottle. Is it the finest example of the grape on our shores? I’d wager so. The making is deceptively simple, but in that lies the beauty. The right site, expertly judged picking, fruit selection, phenolic extraction and time in barrel are key – a quietly confident stewardship. There’s a front-to-back seamlessness suffused with a mineral, sea-salt-inflected quality, oak a cohesive ghostwriter. Corella pear, tangerine peel, red apple, wildflowers, soft herbs, crystallised lemon, floral nectar and lemon pith lead to a lemon barley water/tonic grip and crushed rock minerality. Intense, effortlessly layered and vibrant, this is superb.

96 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Perhaps the finest fiano outside Campania and even more impressive than the stellar offering from last vintage. Scents of orange pastille, quince paste, candied lemon rind and pistachios with a touch of fennel and white flowers. The texture is medium-bodied and succulent, with salty freshness and a leesy note. The finish is exquisite and very long. This is an excellent wine. Drink or hold. 

96 points Ned Goodwin MW jamessuckling.com

We’ve been experimenting with small parcels of fiano and now produce a small amount of our Rubato Fiano – this fruit is from the original vineyard, we work to extract a little more texture and the wine is fully fermented in seasoned oak barrels.

Rich, medium bodied with layers of flavour and texture. Honey, ginger and hazelnut burst from the palate, and the finish is long and persistent.

Music lovers may know the term "rubato" means to play freely or with abandon; not scared to stray from the normally trodden path.