2023 De Iuliis Semillon, Hunter Valley

The moody Hunter weather threatened, but the rain stopped, the soil allowed harvesters onto the vines – and the quality of this super-expressive lemon, apple and lanolin fruit had its life to live, and transformed itself from chrysalis to resplendent butterfly.

95 points Special Value James Halliday Top 100 20 Whites Under $30 November 2023

De Iuliis Semillon from the Hunter Valley is a crisp, pure and classic expression of one of Australia’s most distinctive white wine styles. Sourced from low-yielding vineyards in Pokolbin, this wine captures everything that makes Hunter Semillon world-class — low alcohol, zesty acidity, and the uncanny ability to transform with age from lemon-laced brightness into rich, toasty complexity.

The De Iuliis family has been growing grapes in the Hunter for generations, with Mike De Iuliis taking the winemaking reins and building a strong reputation for his sharp, clean and age-worthy Semillons. The focus is entirely on letting the fruit and site speak. Grapes are picked early in the season to preserve acidity and freshness, gently pressed, and fermented cool in stainless steel. There’s no oak and no malolactic fermentation, allowing the purity of Semillon to shine without distraction.

In its youth, the wine is pale and shimmering with aromas of lemon zest, green apple, lime blossom and wet stone. The palate is light, razor-sharp and dry, bursting with citrus and a subtle saline edge. The structure and acidity suggest excellent ageing potential. With time in bottle — five, ten or even fifteen years — it develops layered notes of beeswax, toast, and lemon curd while retaining a spine of freshness that keeps it lively.

Perfect with fresh oysters, salt and pepper squid, or lemon and herb roast chicken. Whether you enjoy it now for its vibrancy or cellar it to watch it evolve, this is a Semillon that delivers incredible value and classic regional character.