2023 Dm des Carlines Côtes du Jura En Beaumont Savagnin Ouillé, Jura

En Beaumont shows the fresher face of Savagnin, far removed from the deliberately oxidative style traditionally associated with some of the Jura’s most famous wines. Domaine des Carlines is based in Menétru le Vignoble, near Château Chalon, and here the wine is made ouillé, with the barrels topped up during maturation. That protects it from extended oxygen exposure and keeps the focus firmly on fruit, acidity, texture and the distinctive character of Jura Savagnin.

The En Beaumont site and the Jura’s marl rich soils give Savagnin a natural combination of intensity and mineral drive. The 2023 season was warmer and more generous than 2024, providing plenty of flavour while the variety’s formidable acidity maintained its shape. Compared with Chardonnay, Savagnin has a more assertive personality, with citrus, orchard fruit and spice accompanied by that wonderfully savoury, almost salty quality.

Pale gold, with lemon zest, quince and yellow apple at first, followed by grapefruit, white flowers and chamomile. Fresh fennel, crushed stone and almond skin appear with air. There is lovely texture across the palate, with preserved lemon and orchard fruit balanced by mouth watering acidity and a firm mineral grip. Grapefruit peel and green almond sharpen the edges before a long, dry finish with a delicious saline snap.

Scallops with brown butter and capers would be superb, alongside crab with preserved lemon, roast chicken with morels, grilled prawns with fennel or cauliflower gratin with Comté. Our pick is the crab, where sweet shellfish and preserved lemon play beautifully against Savagnin’s salty, citrus driven character.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2037.