2022 Dm des Carlines Côtes du Jura En Charnay Savagnin Ouillé, Jura

En Charnay takes us into one of the most fascinating corners of the Domaine des Carlines range. Based in Menétru le Vignoble, close to Château Chalon, the domaine works with the Jura’s traditional grapes across its distinctive limestone and marl soils. Here the star is Savagnin, but importantly it is labelled ouillé, meaning the barrels are regularly topped up during maturation to prevent the oxidative development associated with traditional vin jaune. The result is a much fresher and more precise expression of the variety.

En Charnay is a specific vineyard site, and Savagnin is wonderfully suited to the Jura’s cool climate and marl rich terrain. The 2022 vintage brought considerably more warmth and sunshine than the difficult years surrounding it, giving the wine ripe fruit and concentration while Savagnin’s formidable natural acidity keeps everything moving. There is richness here, but also the salty, citrus driven tension that makes topped up Savagnin so compelling.

Bright straw gold, opening with preserved lemon, yellow apple and quince before grapefruit and white flowers appear. Fennel, chamomile and crushed stone follow, with hints of almond and gentle spice underneath. The palate has real texture and grip, combining citrus and orchard fruit with mouth watering acidity. Lemon peel, green walnut and a distinctive saline note gather through the middle before a long, dry and mineral finish.

Comté is almost compulsory, but we can have considerably more fun than a cheese board. Try scallops with brown butter and hazelnuts, roast turbot with capers, chicken with morels, crab with preserved lemon or cauliflower with Comté and toasted walnuts. Our pick is the scallops, where their sweetness and brown butter richness meet Savagnin’s acidity and salty, nutty edge beautifully.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2036.