2023 Dm des Lambrays Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Baulet, Burgundy

Ruby purple, with a bundle of energy on the nose. Glowing deep dark red fruit, with a little white pepper, much more energy to the fruit, mouth filling dark red raspberry, spicy at the finish, shows warmth and delicacy at the same time. Drink from 2029-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.

92-94 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Clos Baulet sits just below the grand wall of Clos des Lambrays, and while it may carry a more modest appellation, the pedigree here is unmistakable. Domaine des Lambrays approaches Morey Saint Denis with the same level of precision and care as its Grand Cru wines, focusing on transparency, texture and quiet depth rather than showiness.

The 2023 feels beautifully poised and already remarkably expressive. Red cherry, wild strawberry and crushed raspberry rise first, wrapped in violet, rose petal and a fine thread of spice. There’s a cool freshness to the aromatics that feels very Morey, but beneath it sits a darker, gently earthy layer that slowly unfolds with air.

It moves with finesse rather than force. Fine tannins shape the wine delicately, while bright acidity keeps everything lifted and flowing. Hints of clove, tea leaf and crushed stone emerge through the middle, and the finish lingers with soft spice, florals and a savoury mineral edge.

This is where the wine really becomes addictive. Roast duck with cherry and thyme is a beautiful fit, but it’s equally compelling with mushroom and taleggio tart, roasted beetroot with whipped goat curd and hazelnuts, or even a simple truffle butter pasta where the wine’s earthy detail starts to glow.

Already incredibly charming, though it has enough structure and balance to evolve gracefully over the next ten to twelve years.

There’s a quiet confidence here, a Burgundy that whispers rather than shouts, but keeps revealing more every time you return to the glass.