2023 Dm des Perdrix Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Perdrix, Burgundy

At the heart of Domaine des Perdrix lies Aux Perdrix, the vineyard that gives the estate its name and one of its most important holdings in Nuits Saint Georges. The Devillard family acquired the domaine in 1996 and owns almost the entire Premier Cru vineyard, with its walled Clos des Forêts Saint Georges style of identity replaced here by something more intimate: a site closely associated with a single domaine. The family’s holdings sit near the southern end of Nuits, where the wines are renowned for structure, depth and their ability to age.

The 2023 vintage brought generous fruit and beautiful perfume, giving the naturally muscular personality of Nuits Saint Georges a little extra charm. Premier Cru concentration is immediately apparent here, but it is not simply bigger than the village wine. There is greater depth, finer tannin and a more persistent mineral character, with the ripe fruit held firmly in check by savoury structure.

Deep ruby crimson, with black cherry, Morello cherry and wild raspberry leading into violet and dried rose. Blood orange provides lift before clove, liquorice, black tea and crushed stone emerge. The palate is concentrated and beautifully shaped, with dark cherry wrapped in fine, firm tannins. Earth, orange peel and savoury spice build through the middle, while a subtle mineral grip carries everything into a long, detailed finish.

Roast quail with chestnuts and mushrooms would be superb, alongside duck breast with beetroot, veal with morels, grilled king oyster mushrooms with miso or ocean trout with shiitake and soy. Our pick is the quail, where earthy mushrooms and sweet chestnuts meet the darker, savoury character of Nuits beautifully.

Cellaring: Best from 2028 to 2042.