2023 Dm des Perdrix Echezeaux Grand Cru, Burgundy

Échezeaux takes Domaine des Perdrix into the upper reaches of the Côte de Nuits. The estate has been owned by the Devillard family since 1996, with its home in Premeaux Prissey and an impressive collection of vineyards centred on Nuits Saint Georges. Its parcel of Échezeaux gives the domaine a foothold among Burgundy’s most celebrated Grand Crus, where greater perfume, depth and sheer persistence take things well beyond the already serious Premier Cru wines.

Échezeaux lies between Vougeot and Vosne Romanée, a large and complex Grand Cru with numerous lieux dits and variations in exposure and soil. At its best, it combines the seductive fragrance associated with Vosne with genuine structure and ageing capacity. The generous 2023 vintage plays beautifully to that personality, giving ripe fruit and aromatic abundance while retaining the freshness and tannin required for a long evolution in bottle.

Deep luminous ruby, opening with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and dark cherry before violet and dried rose take over. Blood orange, star anise and clove follow, with sandalwood, black tea and a faint earthy note adding complexity. The palate is concentrated yet wonderfully silky, with layers of red and dark cherry carried by fine, persistent tannins. Sweet spice and orange peel emerge through the middle, while a cool mineral note draws everything into an exceptionally long, fragrant finish.

Duck breast with cherries and five spice would be magnificent, alongside roast quail with morels, veal with truffle, miso glazed king oyster mushrooms or simply roasted pigeon with its own juices. Our pick is the quail and morels. With Grand Cru Burgundy, the food should know when to stop talking.

Cellaring: Best from 2030 to 2048+.