2023 Domaine Camille Thiriet Les Chagniots Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy

From the other end of Corgoloin. Just across the road from Clos des Langres, still on a slope but on thicker clay, 60-year-old vines. 20% whole bunches. A brisk mid purple, with greater precision to the nose, the whole bunches just adding a bit of lift. Fine acidity, excellent balance throughout, with persistence. Fine ageing possibility here.

89 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Camille Thiriet has become one of Burgundy’s most closely watched young growers, building a remarkable reputation from her small base in Comblanchien. After working with Nicolas Potel at Domaine de Bellene, she established her own venture in 2016 alongside Canadian winemaker Matt Chittick. The domaine has grown steadily, but production remains tiny and the wines are increasingly difficult to secure. Les Chagniots is a particularly appealing example of Camille’s talent for finding personality and quality in vineyards that sit outside Burgundy’s famous village appellations.

The 2023 growing season brought warmth and generous ripeness to Burgundy, giving this Pinot Noir a more open, succulent character than the cooler 2024. Les Chagniots combines that generosity with the fragrance and savoury detail that have become hallmarks of Camille’s approach. Gentle extraction and carefully judged oak allow the fruit to take centre stage, while fresh acidity and fine tannins keep everything nicely balanced. It is a charming Bourgogne Rouge, but there is considerably more going on than its modest classification might suggest.

Bright ruby with red cherry, wild strawberry and ripe raspberry, followed by violet and a touch of blood orange. Subtle clove, black tea and woodland earth add complexity without overwhelming the fruit. The palate is silky and medium bodied, with succulent red berries supported by lively acidity and fine, supple tannins. Cherry and raspberry move towards orange peel, gentle spice and a lightly earthy finish. The warmth of the vintage gives it a little extra flesh, but the wine remains beautifully fresh and fragrant.

Duck and shiitake dumplings would be excellent alongside, while grilled tuna with sesame, mushroom and Comté tart, roast quail with lentils or miso glazed eggplant would all suit its delicate savoury character. Serve slightly below room temperature and give it a generous Burgundy glass. This is exactly the sort of Pinot that makes an ordinary dinner feel rather more interesting.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.